East Africa wants to curb imports of used clothes. But it’s not easy

East Africa's Struggle Against Used Clothes Imports

East Africa wants to curb imports - Despite persistent rainfall, the bustling market of Gikomba in Kenya remains a magnet for shoppers, despite its flooded conditions. The site, which functions as the largest open-air trading hub in East Africa, continues to draw crowds as people search for second-hand clothing, a staple of its offerings. Even when the ground is slick and pathways are crowded, customers, some clad in rubber boots, navigate the space with determination, highlighting the enduring appeal of the second-hand trade.

Second-Hand Clothing's Economic Challenge

Garments imported from the US, Europe, and China create a long-standing challenge for the East African Community (EAC), a regional bloc Kenya is part of. The influx of cheap, used clothes threatens to stifle the growth of local fashion industries. "We’re caught in a cycle of competition with second-hand clothing, but we can’t match the price," says Zia Bett, founder of Kenyan womenswear brand Zia Africa. Her words reflect a broader concern: how can a region develop a robust textile sector when its markets are overwhelmed by inexpensive, second-hand imports?

Elizabeth Paul, owner of Kuya Creations in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, echoes this sentiment. "In my shop, the cheapest dress is 50,000 Tanzanian shillings," she explains. Yet, customers often argue, "For that amount, I could buy ten second-hand dresses." This dynamic underscores the economic pressure on local producers, who struggle to compete with the affordability of second-hand goods.

A Historic Attempt to Restrict Imports

More than a decade ago, the EAC expressed strong opposition to the flood of second-hand clothing and considered imposing a regional ban. The plan gained momentum until the US intervened with persuasive arguments, pushing the EAC to abandon the proposal. However, the debate has reignited, with countries like Uganda taking the lead in new measures to curb the trade.

Uganda, where the president once called second-hand clothes "coming from white dead people," has recently introduced an additional 30% tax on used clothing imports. This move aims to both support local garment manufacturers and reduce environmental harm. Meanwhile, Kenya, which already imposes a 30% customs duty on second-hand imports—higher than the shipping cost of new clothes—attempted to simplify its tax system for used garments. However, the plan faced swift resistance from Kenyans fearing rising prices, prompting its removal from the Finance Bill.

Quantifying the Impact

According to trade data from the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), Kenya leads Africa in importing second-hand clothing, commonly referred to as "mitumba" in Swahili. In 2022, the country received nearly 180,000 tonnes of such garments—a significant 76% increase compared to 2013, as noted by UN statistics. This surge has raised questions about the sustainability of the industry and its effect on local producers.

The Economic Policy Research Centre, a government-funded institution, reported in 2024 that second-hand clothes are the most sought-after items in Uganda, followed by new imports and locally made products. This hierarchy illustrates the complex interplay between affordability, tradition, and economic policy in the region.

Pushback and Debate

The new 30% environmental levy on used clothing in Uganda adds to an existing 35% import duty and 18% VAT. While the government claims this will help reduce environmental degradation and boost domestic production, traders like Aaron Sekky of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) argue it undermines economic freedom. "This has to be a free economy," Sekky says. He highlights the role of second-hand clothes in sustaining livelihoods, a point shared by many in the industry.

The supply chain for second-hand garments is extensive, encompassing importers, wholesalers, tailors who repair damaged items, and vendors selling food and drinks at the markets. Although there is no official data on employment numbers, MCAK’s research estimates that up to 4.9 million people across East Africa depend on the used clothing trade for their income. This figure underscores the industry’s significance, even as critics question its long-term value.

Reevaluating the Employment Argument

Dr. Andrew Brooks, a King’s College London academic who authored *Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-hand Clothes*, challenges the idea that second-hand trade is a substantial economic driver. "Retail is the most limited form of job creation in an economic sector," he says. "Production, marketing, and distribution contribute far more to a nation’s economy." This perspective highlights the debate over whether the industry is a lifeline for the poor or a temporary fix that stifles growth.

Lisa Kibutu, a Kenya Fashion Council board member, acknowledges the importance of used clothing but notes its limitations. "Many jobs in the mitumba sector are hand-to-mouth roles that don’t allow for advancement," she states. Yet, she also emphasizes the social impact of the trade. "When I left Kenya in the 80s, you would see poor people without clothes," she recalls. "Today, even the poorest have decent attire," a testament to the role the industry plays in improving access to fashion.

The Path Forward

The affordability of second-hand clothes remains a central issue. While some argue that the trade empowers individuals by providing low-cost options, others see it as a barrier to local innovation. The challenge for East African nations is to balance these competing interests: supporting the economic survival of millions while fostering a more sustainable and self-reliant fashion industry.

As the debate continues, the region grapples with the question of how to integrate second-hand clothing into its economic framework without undermining local producers. The introduction of taxes and duties signals a shift toward regulating the trade, but their effectiveness depends on how they are implemented and the broader economic context. For now, Gikomba and its counterparts remain vibrant symbols of a market where tradition and modernity clash, and where the fight for economic dominance is waged in the fabric of everyday life.

Ultimately, the struggle over used clothing imports reflects a deeper conversation about development, sustainability, and the role of global markets in shaping local economies. Whether the region can curb its reliance on second-hand goods while maintaining economic inclusivity remains a question that will shape the future of East African fashion.