The avalanche that killed a climbing legend – and a generation of record-setting guides

Six Nepali Mountaineering Icons Lost in Broad Peak Avalanche

Ninoda.com – A devastating avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak has claimed the lives of six renowned Nepali mountain guides, dealing a profound blow to the nation’s climbing community. Among the victims was Nirmal Purja, widely recognized as Nims, a 43-year-old British-Nepali climber who spearheaded the expedition. Purja achieved global fame by conquering all fourteen of the world’s peaks exceeding 8,000 meters in just over six months, a remarkable feat captured in a Netflix documentary.

These guides were not merely assistants but accomplished mountaineers in their own right. They had summited Mount Everest countless times and accomplished extraordinary challenges, such as ascending 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen and conquering K2 during the harshest winter months. Their deaths have elevated awareness of Sherpas, who have transitioned from being viewed as support staff to celebrated leaders in mountaineering.

Nirmal Purja: The Expedition Leader

Purja served as the central figure of the ten-member international team when the avalanche struck Broad Peak, the twelfth highest mountain globally. Ben Ayers, a veteran Everest correspondent for Outside Magazine, noted that Purja stood as an unquestioned leader among his peers.

“Nims of course was iconic and undisputedly amongst the best of his generation,” Ayers remarked.

Many observers credit Purja with introducing Pakistan’s Karakoram range to a wider audience of climbers. His rapid ascent of the fourteen peaks demonstrated that even the most daunting mountaineering challenges could be achieved in record time.

Kili Pemba Sherpa: The Grand Slam Champion

Kili Pemba Sherpa, aged 46, had recently completed the prestigious mountaineering Grand Slam by reaching the summit of his final eight-thousander in early July. Prior to this milestone, he had already made history as part of the Nepali team under Purja’s leadership that accomplished the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021.

K2, standing at 8,611 meters, remains the only eight-thousander not previously climbed during winter. At this elevation, it presents steeper terrain and greater unpredictability than Everest, which rises to 8,849 meters. Ayers described Kili Pemba as a powerful climber with an impressive track record.

“Strong climbers with a solid resume,” Ayers said of both Kili Pemba and Pur Bahadur Gurung.

Colleagues remembered Kili Pemba for his humility and dedication to client service. He successfully guided two double-leg amputees to the summits of both Everest and Manaslu, the eighth-highest peak, on separate expeditions.

“That was the toughest task for any guide, [Kili Pemba] did that with a lot of care,” said Gyanendra Shrestha, a government official who witnessed one of these climbs at Everest Base Camp.

Pur Bahadur Gurung: The Certified Master

Pur Bahadur Gurung, 37, had climbed twelve of the fourteen highest peaks and held the prestigious IFMGA certification, placing him among only one hundred Nepali guides worldwide with this distinction. Himal Gautam, a spokesperson for Nepal’s tourism department, emphasized the significance of this achievement.

“It takes a lot of money, passion and dedication to become an IFMGA guide. This tells us a lot about Pur Bahadur’s zeal for mountaineering,” Gautam explained.

In 2024, Pur Bahadur contributed to a remarkable discovery on Everest: a century-old boot believed to belong to British climber Andrew Irvine, who disappeared on the mountain in 1924.

“It also speaks to the unprecedented loss we have suffered on Broad Peak,” Gautam added.

The Other Fallen Guides

The remaining three Nepali guides who perished include Gyaljen Sherpa, renowned for ascending Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, three times within a single season—a feat some colleagues believe merits a Guinness World Record.

Nima Sherpa, 36, had scaled four eight-thousanders in 2026 alone, demonstrating exceptional climbing prowess. Nawang Thindu Sherpa represented the emerging generation of Nepal’s mountain guides, having achieved significant success while still in his twenties.

A Seasonal Journey Through the Mountains

Nepali mountain guides follow a seasonal pattern, spending spring months leading international clients up Nepal’s towering peaks as guides or porters. When the monsoon season arrives from June through September, many travel to Pakistan’s northern regions, which contain five of the world’s eight-thousanders.

While the Himalayas welcome over a million adventure travelers annually, the Karakoram mountains attract approximately 15,000 hikers each year. International interest in this rugged landscape continues to grow steadily.

“Nims’ success gave many [guides] and foreigners the courage to believe that this mountaineering crown was truly possible,” said Iswari Paudel, acting president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Nepal now mourns the loss of six of its greatest mountaineering figures, whose accomplishments and dedication have forever changed how the world views Nepali mountain guides.